PA Unltd MK4 Supra Finally Running!… Well…

So, I finally got this dang car to idle … and when I say that I mean it held its own idle for a solid minute before richening itself to cut off. After, sending an initial log back for them to review it they noticed I wasn’t getting any RPM signal. So my mystery tuner guy/girl was hinting that maybe a crank or cam sensor was faulty or not plugged in. Of course! I didn’t plug in the crank sensor. So after connecting it I tried to crank the engine and taadaaaaahh my car started for the first time. Idle was horrible and couldn’t hold its own but it started.

I then recored that log and sent it back to have them look at it and hopefully I get another update. I have since then reinstalled my carpet and most of the interior trim after doing some rust prevention in the interior floor. In Germany dry ice is unheard of. Language barrier in trying to find anything of this nature or the spray that does a similar effect I couldn’t find. So, I resorted to the manual hammer and flat head trick with the help of a friend Jacob. Took forever and definitely not recommended but it is what it is.

Below will be some of the recent pics!

AEM Failsafe (Wideband and Boost guage)

The fitment couldn’t be better

 

Sound Deadening pics

 

Lastly my Bride collection… 2 are real… 2 are fake… 

 

  • PA Unltd

PA Unltd MK4 Supra – Not Starting…. >:(

So, after getting everything situated with the fuel issue I ordered the tune from SupraStore through Lonnie. Cool guy and everything seemed straight forward. You tell them what you have on your car and they give you a map.. you upload and drive… log it and send it back for a one time correction/retune. Pretty much to fix any errors or make more use of power.

Let’s hope this gets fixed soon.

Supra still down… New daily up

Today, I finally wired up EVERYTHING on the car and still no luck with the start. It almost turned over one time… but still now luck. So I’m awaiting a reply from Lonnie from SupraStore from the tuner for my car.

On the bright side, I live near a junkyard were they auction off cars for a decent price. May 13th, I placed a bid on a US Spec 1999 Honda Civic at a high bid of $351. The bid ended on the 15th and so before that day I checked to see if any bids were on the vehicle and none! Feeling pretty confident in my bid at this point. NOPE! Apparently someone outbid me the last minute with a decent amount but luckily they backed out the day they had(It was actually some craziness with this but just to fast forward lol). So I of course jumped on this thing with the quickness. Didn’t even really look at it just seen it was clean outside and it ran decent.

After finally getting I did a quick look over and its pretty clean… sitting at 220xxx miles which is A LOT but the car is in decent shape and well taken care of for Germany. I ended up giving it a bath and vacuuming out all the dirt in the car. After noticing the headlights were bad I did a quick polish on them, that told me I needed to definitely get the big boy kit out. It runs surprisingly smooth but I’m still very excited about the Supra… enjoy pics of the new Daily!

Taking the car from the lot

The headlight “difference” haha XD

PA Unltd MK4 Supra Update

So, this is late… but hang in there with me. Since the last post I was frustrated and just lost on why my car had filled up cylinders with gas. Since then I have FIXED the issue and I it still isn’t running lol.

Well, to start off, after replacing the Fuel Pressure regulator with the Aeromotions one sent from Driftmotions(They are the only people to go to… AMAZING service). I primed the car… and sure enough it happened AGAIN! By this point, I figured that the FPR wasn’t the issue the whole time… it had to have been something else. I really didn’t want to take apart everything but I had to in order to figure out this issue.

Symptom:

Gas filling up cylinders, Leaking out of vacuum ports, getting no vacuum pressure to my FPR

Problem:

Injector wasn’t seated properly into the fuel rail… causing fuel to leak past both o-rings and fill up the cylinder then flowing into my intake.

Troubleshoot:

Take out fuel rail with everything still attached( Injectors, fuel lines, and FPR). Reason being is to see if the injectors themselves are spitting fuel or to see if its leaking past. When the car is in the on position, fuel should fill up the fuel rail but SHOULD NOT go past the injectors until the ecu senses it is trying to start. So, if you turn it to the on position and fuel is gushing out like in the videos I will post below it is the seating/ o-ring issue. I’d assume if the injectors were stuck open it would be a more cleaner spray.

Fix Action:

Took out each injector, lubed the o-rings a little more than last time to ensure it seats better, and it actually felt more centered on its on when I re-installed the second time around.

 

Hope this helps anyone with similar issues!

 

Enjoy the pics and videos of the issue

Pics below show the rail removed just to take out the injectors since it was a pain and the clip to show how all of them were wired the same.

 

Got Power to the car… So lets prime it to make sure everything works…

Yup, well… I got everything for the most part buttoned up.. just enough to make sure that fuel pushes forward and that nothing leaks.

Oh it primes alright..  primed so good that it blew the diaphragm  in my Fuel Pressure Regulator and had my intake full of it. Filled it up so good that the boost gauge had fuel coming out of the vaccum hose getting a little into my car and on my carpet. Filled it up so good that I had a nice fountain from the vacuum opening shoot straight onto the firewall.

Needless to say, that was a bad day. My house reeked of fuel for.. well it still smell bad and this is going on day 5. So after getting some info for the forums that it was the issue I had to order  an aftermarket one from DriftMotion. After thinking about it, it was a poor decision on my end to try and cheap out and use the stock one and I sure had to pay for it in the end. I ended up going with the Aeromotive AFPR Kit for the 2JZ-GTE. Yup $250 more down the drain.

After seeing how that worked I decided to also invest into a boost controller. I was going to be dumb/cheap yet again and try to run off of just the wastegate. So I ordered a boost controller also just as a second caution for boost control. I was going to continue with AEM but was gladly notified that 90% of companies get the solenoids from a company called MAC. Of course buying straight from the source you usually save and sure enough it was half the cost for the same product. I purchased off of amazon for $60ish. It’s the 4 port Mac solenoid boost valve. Then be sure to get the proper fittings as well since it doesn’t come with it which was the 3/16″ ID 1/8″ NPT Male Barb Hose/Tubing Fitting Connector for an awesome price of $4… $2 each.

Now I play the wait game… enjoy the pics of the progress.. or hinderance

 

So in sequence.. found the main “fountain” that gas was blasting out of

Removed all interior to clean the floor and shampoo all the interior fabric.. all seats were done also

Since I went this far I took apart the whole front to brake clean the intake plenum and my intercooler since gas got in there as well. Words can’t express how bad of a gas smell it is/was. (Sanded the bumper bash bar also to spray that also)

While I was this far I decided i could spray some rust prevention any where that I haven’t all ready sprayed as well.

Then just various pics of what is looks like

 

Oh, the MAC Boost Controller Solenoid on Amazon