PA Unltd MK4 Supra – Not Starting…. >:(

So, after getting everything situated with the fuel issue I ordered the tune from SupraStore through Lonnie. Cool guy and everything seemed straight forward. You tell them what you have on your car and they give you a map.. you upload and drive… log it and send it back for a one time correction/retune. Pretty much to fix any errors or make more use of power.

Let’s hope this gets fixed soon.

Supra still down… New daily up

Today, I finally wired up EVERYTHING on the car and still no luck with the start. It almost turned over one time… but still now luck. So I’m awaiting a reply from Lonnie from SupraStore from the tuner for my car.

On the bright side, I live near a junkyard were they auction off cars for a decent price. May 13th, I placed a bid on a US Spec 1999 Honda Civic at a high bid of $351. The bid ended on the 15th and so before that day I checked to see if any bids were on the vehicle and none! Feeling pretty confident in my bid at this point. NOPE! Apparently someone outbid me the last minute with a decent amount but luckily they backed out the day they had(It was actually some craziness with this but just to fast forward lol). So I of course jumped on this thing with the quickness. Didn’t even really look at it just seen it was clean outside and it ran decent.

After finally getting I did a quick look over and its pretty clean… sitting at 220xxx miles which is A LOT but the car is in decent shape and well taken care of for Germany. I ended up giving it a bath and vacuuming out all the dirt in the car. After noticing the headlights were bad I did a quick polish on them, that told me I needed to definitely get the big boy kit out. It runs surprisingly smooth but I’m still very excited about the Supra… enjoy pics of the new Daily!

Taking the car from the lot

The headlight “difference” haha XD

PA Unltd MK4 Supra Update

So, this is late… but hang in there with me. Since the last post I was frustrated and just lost on why my car had filled up cylinders with gas. Since then I have FIXED the issue and I it still isn’t running lol.

Well, to start off, after replacing the Fuel Pressure regulator with the Aeromotions one sent from Driftmotions(They are the only people to go to… AMAZING service). I primed the car… and sure enough it happened AGAIN! By this point, I figured that the FPR wasn’t the issue the whole time… it had to have been something else. I really didn’t want to take apart everything but I had to in order to figure out this issue.

Symptom:

Gas filling up cylinders, Leaking out of vacuum ports, getting no vacuum pressure to my FPR

Problem:

Injector wasn’t seated properly into the fuel rail… causing fuel to leak past both o-rings and fill up the cylinder then flowing into my intake.

Troubleshoot:

Take out fuel rail with everything still attached( Injectors, fuel lines, and FPR). Reason being is to see if the injectors themselves are spitting fuel or to see if its leaking past. When the car is in the on position, fuel should fill up the fuel rail but SHOULD NOT go past the injectors until the ecu senses it is trying to start. So, if you turn it to the on position and fuel is gushing out like in the videos I will post below it is the seating/ o-ring issue. I’d assume if the injectors were stuck open it would be a more cleaner spray.

Fix Action:

Took out each injector, lubed the o-rings a little more than last time to ensure it seats better, and it actually felt more centered on its on when I re-installed the second time around.

 

Hope this helps anyone with similar issues!

 

Enjoy the pics and videos of the issue

Pics below show the rail removed just to take out the injectors since it was a pain and the clip to show how all of them were wired the same.

 

Got Power to the car… So lets prime it to make sure everything works…

Yup, well… I got everything for the most part buttoned up.. just enough to make sure that fuel pushes forward and that nothing leaks.

Oh it primes alright..  primed so good that it blew the diaphragm  in my Fuel Pressure Regulator and had my intake full of it. Filled it up so good that the boost gauge had fuel coming out of the vaccum hose getting a little into my car and on my carpet. Filled it up so good that I had a nice fountain from the vacuum opening shoot straight onto the firewall.

Needless to say, that was a bad day. My house reeked of fuel for.. well it still smell bad and this is going on day 5. So after getting some info for the forums that it was the issue I had to order  an aftermarket one from DriftMotion. After thinking about it, it was a poor decision on my end to try and cheap out and use the stock one and I sure had to pay for it in the end. I ended up going with the Aeromotive AFPR Kit for the 2JZ-GTE. Yup $250 more down the drain.

After seeing how that worked I decided to also invest into a boost controller. I was going to be dumb/cheap yet again and try to run off of just the wastegate. So I ordered a boost controller also just as a second caution for boost control. I was going to continue with AEM but was gladly notified that 90% of companies get the solenoids from a company called MAC. Of course buying straight from the source you usually save and sure enough it was half the cost for the same product. I purchased off of amazon for $60ish. It’s the 4 port Mac solenoid boost valve. Then be sure to get the proper fittings as well since it doesn’t come with it which was the 3/16″ ID 1/8″ NPT Male Barb Hose/Tubing Fitting Connector for an awesome price of $4… $2 each.

Now I play the wait game… enjoy the pics of the progress.. or hinderance

 

So in sequence.. found the main “fountain” that gas was blasting out of

Removed all interior to clean the floor and shampoo all the interior fabric.. all seats were done also

Since I went this far I took apart the whole front to brake clean the intake plenum and my intercooler since gas got in there as well. Words can’t express how bad of a gas smell it is/was. (Sanded the bumper bash bar also to spray that also)

While I was this far I decided i could spray some rust prevention any where that I haven’t all ready sprayed as well.

Then just various pics of what is looks like

 

Oh, the MAC Boost Controller Solenoid on Amazon

Injector Clips, Fuel Pump… TURBO!!

Soooo I’ve been slacking on updates due to work but for an update Injector clips are now finished and the upper intake was put back on.

The warble 450lph was installed but ill be going back in to redo somethings,Then the FSR Turbo kit arrived and its installed as well!

I’ll post the pics and comments below.

Injector Clips:

1. See the white clip in the middle of the plug    

2. Get a pick/something with a fine point and pry it out

3. Be sure to pry it all the way out and set it aside.

4. Now you pry up on the locks inside to pull the wires

4. What it looks like when there are all pulled out

5. This point you can cut/splice the wire to replace the pin or whatever you’d like for the new clip

— This is how I wired mine… blue tape.. was just because.

6. Then all buttoned up! 

If anyone has any questions let me know!

 

As for the fuel pump.. it was really really straight forward

 

Turbo kit Install…

Man… I really wish I took my time but it was that SIMPLE lol

Which means all I have is a semi finished and finished haha

took a total of 2 hours to put in… 1 hour and 30 mins was spent clocking the turbo right and setting up the water lines

About TIME!

Progress is being made!

  • Started installing my injectors… Not too bad but I wish I was better prepared.

With the injector collars that came with the injectors they will not be able to fit when using the stock fuel rail so those couldn’t be use. I wish I would have bought stock injectors O-rings since the ones that come on the injectors are too small to seat properly so I had to reuse those. Other than that all was good!

^ These bad boys didn’t work out

^ All installed

^ Now for the wiring… Still in progress

  • Finally my fuel pump arrived! Walbro 450LPH
  • Last but not least… the turbo kit..its shipped!

Still waiting…

It’s been 11 solid days since the removal of the twins on the Supra and well… Still no sign of my single turbo kit. I ordered the FSR Street Torque kit from Drift Motions (Really awesome place to get parts for the Supra/1JZ/2JZ guys) almost a month ago along with other small things. I called them a couple days ago and they said they need to fabricate the wastage dump tube.  So I’ll be finishing up my AEM V2 install along with the AEM Failsafe Wideband. I have some Sard 850cc drop-in injectors and the 450lph Walbro fuel pump still on its way here also that I’m waiting on as well.

 

Overall, I just don’t have the motivation since my turbo isn’t on the way although I should finish all the supporting things so when the kit arrives its literally install and drive!

Shoutouts to, Bryan Sees for the AEM V2 and Sard Injectors then Driftmotions for everything else! Can’t forget the awesome family/friends I have supporting all of this and the page!

Supra Twin Removal

I feel horrible for not taking as many pics as I should have but I was in the zone… the busting my knuckles and getting tired of my car zone.

I’ll put a super generic list of the order I did things.

As a starter I’m not liable for anything on your car. This is strictly what I did and the car was on jack stands(x2 only front) in my garage. I have a basic tool kit but the only special tools I have is ratcheting wrenches that came in help!

Tools I used:

Wrench/Socket sizes- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm

Rachet extension(s)< plural!

Rachet joint

Pry bar 8″
1. PBS Blast or Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil the whole exhaust/turbo side… of its a bolt if should be drowning in this stuff. Let it sit for awhile before you start working on the car. I let mine sit for maybe 3-4 hours only because I was eating and getting last minute things.

2. Remove intercooler piping as well as air intake on that side. Also remove the stock recirculation BOV.

3. Next remove the vacuum line tube on top of the turbo.. should be a couple 10mm bolts and I literally pulled it out for the two lines that went behind the block. Also unclip all plugs around this area.

3. Then I took off the all the intake piping off the front turbo. It will be 2 parts to it.

4. Will be remove downpipe from turbos. Then remove upper downpipe 3 bolts and the valve will fall off with it… after that you should be good octopus around and loosen all the bolts to the turbos and manifold.

5-10. Loosen ever bolt on the manifold and downpipe as well. You will want to take off front turbo. Then middle section

. Then rear.. then all the bolts should come off fairly easy..
Of course this is easier said then done but I didn’t take enough pics to make this accurate

About me… Ricky

Soo my name is Ricky Parrish, born and raised in Las Vegas, NV. Cars and racing were in my DNA with 3 Generations of confirmed gear heads.

I left Vegas at the age of 18 to go work in Japan. I stayed there for 6 years and I just recently moved to Germany for a couple years. I’ve grown up to love and respect all things cars. If you put work into it I can appreciate it even it isn’t my style. I love racing of all sorts although my personal favorite is circuit and drifting.
Enough about me… let get back to car stuff
PA Unlimited

Okay, so what about “Unlimited”

I’m currently living in Germany and the one thing they are famous for is the Autobahn. The one place where you can press the gas pedal to the floor and keep going without the worry of a speed limit(In some areas). Well, that sign that lets you do that is called “No-Limit” or “End of all speed or passing limits”. Or if you like to simplify things like me UNLIMITED. This one sign makes all car drivers and enthusiast go wild because not only is on the freeway but that is also what makes Nürburgring Nordschleife amazing! Surprisingly there is speed limits on the track but of course most of it is UNLIMITED.

So there you have the last piece of the Puzzle!