I’ve taken a decent break lately… 1. Due to work and 2. Due to work
Working these long shifts and with a family makes it hard to focus 100% but I’m trying at it!
Last update was that I finally got this car to finally run and idle decent which.. it pretty much just stayed at that same spot. Since then I’ve buttoned up a couple things. Tried to tidy up the engine bay a little more before I take it on up to get tuned. The idle someone how is a lot smoother since the last post and I haven’t touched the tune at all since. With the car idling all decent and what not I thought to myself it would be a smart idea to drive my car around the neighborhood just to see how it feels. (It was at that moment I knew… I fucked up) So I was about to give it maybe 10%-15% throttle but it was about to get to traffic speed but any boost and it was all bad. While driving it shut off on me in the middle of the road. Oil shot out of the valve cover breather port and got everywhere. So after looking like a complete ass, I decieded I’d never do that again and just wait.
So, with this new mindset I decided to get a catch can from Driftmotions and then just make it look cleaner and tighten the oil feed plug on the back since it had been leaking as well. The car as of now doesn’t look too bad but I love a clean engine bay and with the water lines and all the other lines for the wastegate and boost controller, I just can’t even. It looks better than the twins still but not as clean as I’d prefer.
While looking for someone to tune my car I got desperate and asked on the forums in hopes someone in Germany could help me with a dyno tune or a street tune. The E-Tunes with Supra Store just was too inconvenient and time consuming but if I were in the US I’d probably still try to do it. After asking I got a reply from a guy named Arnout Van Der Kamp. If you know the supra community he is a huge part of its continuity but… He messaged me asking if I could come to the Netherlands and he would tune my car. Excited like a little school girl I had to do it of course so we set up the date for June 22nd and we will see what I can put down and if all is good.
I’ll update you guys with pics tomorrow on the process!
So, I finally got this dang car to idle … and when I say that I mean it held its own idle for a solid minute before richening itself to cut off. After, sending an initial log back for them to review it they noticed I wasn’t getting any RPM signal. So my mystery tuner guy/girl was hinting that maybe a crank or cam sensor was faulty or not plugged in. Of course! I didn’t plug in the crank sensor. So after connecting it I tried to crank the engine and taadaaaaahh my car started for the first time. Idle was horrible and couldn’t hold its own but it started.
I then recored that log and sent it back to have them look at it and hopefully I get another update. I have since then reinstalled my carpet and most of the interior trim after doing some rust prevention in the interior floor. In Germany dry ice is unheard of. Language barrier in trying to find anything of this nature or the spray that does a similar effect I couldn’t find. So, I resorted to the manual hammer and flat head trick with the help of a friend Jacob. Took forever and definitely not recommended but it is what it is.
Below will be some of the recent pics!
AEM Failsafe (Wideband and Boost guage)
The fitment couldn’t be better
Sound Deadening pics
Lastly my Bride collection… 2 are real… 2 are fake… 
So, after getting everything situated with the fuel issue I ordered the tune from SupraStore through Lonnie. Cool guy and everything seemed straight forward. You tell them what you have on your car and they give you a map.. you upload and drive… log it and send it back for a one time correction/retune. Pretty much to fix any errors or make more use of power.
Let’s hope this gets fixed soon.
Today, I finally wired up EVERYTHING on the car and still no luck with the start. It almost turned over one time… but still now luck. So I’m awaiting a reply from Lonnie from SupraStore from the tuner for my car.
On the bright side, I live near a junkyard were they auction off cars for a decent price. May 13th, I placed a bid on a US Spec 1999 Honda Civic at a high bid of $351. The bid ended on the 15th and so before that day I checked to see if any bids were on the vehicle and none! Feeling pretty confident in my bid at this point. NOPE! Apparently someone outbid me the last minute with a decent amount but luckily they backed out the day they had(It was actually some craziness with this but just to fast forward lol). So I of course jumped on this thing with the quickness. Didn’t even really look at it just seen it was clean outside and it ran decent.
After finally getting I did a quick look over and its pretty clean… sitting at 220xxx miles which is A LOT but the car is in decent shape and well taken care of for Germany. I ended up giving it a bath and vacuuming out all the dirt in the car. After noticing the headlights were bad I did a quick polish on them, that told me I needed to definitely get the big boy kit out. It runs surprisingly smooth but I’m still very excited about the Supra… enjoy pics of the new Daily!
Taking the car from the lot
The headlight “difference” haha XD
So, this is late… but hang in there with me. Since the last post I was frustrated and just lost on why my car had filled up cylinders with gas. Since then I have FIXED the issue and I it still isn’t running lol.
Well, to start off, after replacing the Fuel Pressure regulator with the Aeromotions one sent from Driftmotions(They are the only people to go to… AMAZING service). I primed the car… and sure enough it happened AGAIN! By this point, I figured that the FPR wasn’t the issue the whole time… it had to have been something else. I really didn’t want to take apart everything but I had to in order to figure out this issue.
Symptom:
Gas filling up cylinders, Leaking out of vacuum ports, getting no vacuum pressure to my FPR
Problem:
Injector wasn’t seated properly into the fuel rail… causing fuel to leak past both o-rings and fill up the cylinder then flowing into my intake.
Troubleshoot:
Take out fuel rail with everything still attached( Injectors, fuel lines, and FPR). Reason being is to see if the injectors themselves are spitting fuel or to see if its leaking past. When the car is in the on position, fuel should fill up the fuel rail but SHOULD NOT go past the injectors until the ecu senses it is trying to start. So, if you turn it to the on position and fuel is gushing out like in the videos I will post below it is the seating/ o-ring issue. I’d assume if the injectors were stuck open it would be a more cleaner spray.
Fix Action:
Took out each injector, lubed the o-rings a little more than last time to ensure it seats better, and it actually felt more centered on its on when I re-installed the second time around.
Hope this helps anyone with similar issues!
Enjoy the pics and videos of the issue
Pics below show the rail removed just to take out the injectors since it was a pain and the clip to show how all of them were wired the same.
Yup, well… I got everything for the most part buttoned up.. just enough to make sure that fuel pushes forward and that nothing leaks.
Oh it primes alright.. primed so good that it blew the diaphragm in my Fuel Pressure Regulator and had my intake full of it. Filled it up so good that the boost gauge had fuel coming out of the vaccum hose getting a little into my car and on my carpet. Filled it up so good that I had a nice fountain from the vacuum opening shoot straight onto the firewall.
Needless to say, that was a bad day. My house reeked of fuel for.. well it still smell bad and this is going on day 5. So after getting some info for the forums that it was the issue I had to order an aftermarket one from DriftMotion. After thinking about it, it was a poor decision on my end to try and cheap out and use the stock one and I sure had to pay for it in the end. I ended up going with the Aeromotive AFPR Kit for the 2JZ-GTE. Yup $250 more down the drain.
After seeing how that worked I decided to also invest into a boost controller. I was going to be dumb/cheap yet again and try to run off of just the wastegate. So I ordered a boost controller also just as a second caution for boost control. I was going to continue with AEM but was gladly notified that 90% of companies get the solenoids from a company called MAC. Of course buying straight from the source you usually save and sure enough it was half the cost for the same product. I purchased off of amazon for $60ish. It’s the 4 port Mac solenoid boost valve. Then be sure to get the proper fittings as well since it doesn’t come with it which was the 3/16″ ID 1/8″ NPT Male Barb Hose/Tubing Fitting Connector for an awesome price of $4… $2 each.
Now I play the wait game… enjoy the pics of the progress.. or hinderance
So in sequence.. found the main “fountain” that gas was blasting out of
Removed all interior to clean the floor and shampoo all the interior fabric.. all seats were done also
Since I went this far I took apart the whole front to brake clean the intake plenum and my intercooler since gas got in there as well. Words can’t express how bad of a gas smell it is/was. (Sanded the bumper bash bar also to spray that also)
While I was this far I decided i could spray some rust prevention any where that I haven’t all ready sprayed as well.
Then just various pics of what is looks like
Oh, the MAC Boost Controller Solenoid on Amazon
Soooo I’ve been slacking on updates due to work but for an update Injector clips are now finished and the upper intake was put back on.
The warble 450lph was installed but ill be going back in to redo somethings,Then the FSR Turbo kit arrived and its installed as well!
I’ll post the pics and comments below.
Injector Clips:
1. See the white clip in the middle of the plug 
2. Get a pick/something with a fine point and pry it out
3. Be sure to pry it all the way out and set it aside.
4. Now you pry up on the locks inside to pull the wires
4. What it looks like when there are all pulled out
5. This point you can cut/splice the wire to replace the pin or whatever you’d like for the new clip
— This is how I wired mine… blue tape.. was just because.
6. Then all buttoned up! 
If anyone has any questions let me know!
As for the fuel pump.. it was really really straight forward
Turbo kit Install…
Man… I really wish I took my time but it was that SIMPLE lol
Which means all I have is a semi finished and finished haha
took a total of 2 hours to put in… 1 hour and 30 mins was spent clocking the turbo right and setting up the water lines
Progress is being made!
With the injector collars that came with the injectors they will not be able to fit when using the stock fuel rail so those couldn’t be use. I wish I would have bought stock injectors O-rings since the ones that come on the injectors are too small to seat properly so I had to reuse those. Other than that all was good!
^ These bad boys didn’t work out
^ All installed
^ Now for the wiring… Still in progress
It’s been 11 solid days since the removal of the twins on the Supra and well… Still no sign of my single turbo kit. I ordered the FSR Street Torque kit from Drift Motions (Really awesome place to get parts for the Supra/1JZ/2JZ guys) almost a month ago along with other small things. I called them a couple days ago and they said they need to fabricate the wastage dump tube. So I’ll be finishing up my AEM V2 install along with the AEM Failsafe Wideband. I have some Sard 850cc drop-in injectors and the 450lph Walbro fuel pump still on its way here also that I’m waiting on as well.
Overall, I just don’t have the motivation since my turbo isn’t on the way although I should finish all the supporting things so when the kit arrives its literally install and drive!
Shoutouts to, Bryan Sees for the AEM V2 and Sard Injectors then Driftmotions for everything else! Can’t forget the awesome family/friends I have supporting all of this and the page!
